We have just returned from a weeks visit to Norway. Actually we have been back a couple of weeks now but there is a bit of a delay between doing something and then finding the time to blog about it.
I know it would seem not that long ago since my “holiday to Spain” post, and your probably thinking “two holidays in short succession, fine for some”, and you’d be right in thinking that. Thankfully its not like we are newly graduated students who have loans and debts to be paid back and savings to be made……
Let me fill you in. This was my 14th visit to Norway. I have been every year since 1998. In two of those years I have been twice. It started because my parents realised it was much easier and quicker to get from Shetland to Norway than it was to get to Aberdeen. And at least when the car rolled off the back of the ferry in Bergen you were in a much more scenic, friendlier and not to mention foreign country rather than the arriving in delights of down town Aberdeen.
Now 12 years later I live away from my parents, in Aberdeen, there’s no ferry across thanks to the recession and yet it is still a bit of a tradition to pay Scandinavia a visit every summer. I like to think of it as the annual pilgrimage.
This year we had an excuse to go. Last September (4 weeks or so after being in Norway) I was sent a link to the Nowegian version of Ticketmaster, where I found Coldplay were to be playing in Bergen. Coldplay are one of those bands that I’d always wanted to see but never quite got round to it. Cost aside, the thought of getting to and seeing them in Bergen was much more appealing than the thought of getting to and seeing them in Glasgow. The trip would take less time, the venue is much nicer, it’s a better story to tell and most importantly, there’s very few Glaswegians in Bergen.
Gig tickets were booked. As were the plane tickets.
We decided to turn it into a little bit of a holiday. You’d think after being in Norway 13 times prior to this trip that I would have been well travelled round the country. You’d be wrong. I’ve never ventured too far away from Bergen (on the west coast).
We decided to spend a few days in Stavanger which is only 50 minutes on the plane from Aberdeen. We’d then travel the 100 or so miles north to Bergen where we’d spend the remaining 4 days (and see Coldplay).
The flight from Stavanger to Bergen is one of the easiest flights I have ever taken. It was in a 737 which is one of the largest planes to operate out of Aberdeen. It was the same model of plane that took us to Spain. Only when we went to Spain it was full (and I mean jam packed full) of drunken holiday makers and screaming kids. The flight to Stavanger was around half full and mostly of business people or older couples. The seat belt lights were off for about 20 minutes before the descent into Sola airport began. Even Emma who is scared of flying commented on how quick and stress free it was.
After arriving in Norway it does not take long to witness first hand the higher prices of everything. For example, to get us from Sola airport to centre of Stavanger cost £18 on the airport bus for the two of us. You’ve got to accept before you go that it is going to be an expensive trip. While you can scrimp and save in places, don’t bother trying to do Norway on a tiny budget. You’ll fail and end up having a horrible holiday knowing that you are spending far more money than you ever intended on doing so.
Stavanger looked pretty much how I expected it. A nice coastal town full of colourful buildings. A smaller version of Bergen. It was also chucking it down. More or less to be expected from Western Norway where it rains 70% of the time. They say in Norway “when it rains, it rains. And when it doesn’t rain, there’s rain on the way.”
We were staying in the Myhregaarden hotel. Slap bang in the centre of the town. Perfect location for tourists. It was a little on the expensive side (this is Norway after all) however that extra cost was balanced out by the fact we had a chandelier in our room. It’s set the benchmark for hotel rooms. Chandelier = good. No Chandelier = bad. There was also a wide screen tv, fireplace and Bjorn Berg toiletries. You’d be forgiven for wanting to spend your whole visit in the hotel room.
There is a problem when you stay in hotel accommodation. You have to eat out. In most places that isn’t a problem. In Norway it can be. You see if your like me and don’t like fish, your options are limited. Most restaurants have a 5 menu item, of which 4 of those items are fish dishes. Even Emma, who likes fish most of the time, screwed up her face at some of the fancy fish offerings on the menu. That leaves you with one item left which you’ll expect to pay a minimum of £30 per head, and that’s before you’ve added any drinks, starters or puddings on.
We ended up dining 2 out of the 3 nights in Peppe’s Piza. Think TGI Friday’s. The 3rd night was spent in McDonalds. Man I sure know how to treat a lady.
If you are planning a visit to Stavanger I’d recommend hiring a car, at least for a few days. It doesn’t take long to see pretty much everything there is to see in the town. If we’d been there for any more than 3 days we’d probably have had to do the car option.
I can recommend the Stavanger oil museum, it’s much more exciting than it sounds. The Geoparken is to be seen to be believed. It’s a play park (mainly for children and teenagers) made entirely out of ex oil related materials. A trampoline made from marker buoys, a swing made from a helicopter winch basket and a skate pipe made from some old metal pipes are just some of the highlights. Health and safety would never allow that in the UK. And Emma was in her element, there’s about 1 cafe for every 10 people in Stavanger. And the majority provide pillows and blankets for sitting outside.
On the fourth day we had to get from Stavanger to Bergen. Emma was presented with 3 options. A 30 minute flight. A 4 and a half hour fast ferry or a 6 hour bus trip. She’s scared of flying and gets sick on the bus. So the fast ferry it was. She didn’t really have a choice in the matter as I’ve had my heart set on doing that fast ferry trip ever since I first set my eyes on one in 1998.
We left early morning rainy Stavanger behind, calling in at several ports on our journey north. On open water at 30 knots it was a bit bouncy. I was in my element. Emma was not so much. After switching ferries in Lervik, the final hour and a half of the trip was on a much bigger and smoother ferry. The sun even came out to welcome us in to Bergen.
For me arriving in Bergen is like arriving home. I’ve been there enough times now not to get lost. Except for this time. But I blame that on the directions given to us by the owners of our accommodation and not because of my navigational skills. That’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it.
Our accommodation was at Armunds apartments. Armund is the owner. He and his wife Greta have converted half their house into apartments. We were in the attic apartment. It’s in a quiet area 10 minutes from the city centre. The view was stunning. If that was my view every time I washed dishes, I’d be more than happy to wash the dishes every evening.
As we were self catering for the remainder of the holiday we could eat what we wanted, when we wanted on a much smaller budget (still expensive by British standards). I can not recommend self catering enough. In Bergen there is plenty of self catering dotted around the place. It was a little harder to find in Stavanger (hence the hotel).
Recommended things to do in Bergen: Mount Flóyen must be experienced twice. Once during the day and once at sunset. You need to get the Funicular railway to the top, it’s £7 each return. (You can choose to walk down for half the price if your legs can handle it). It’s a photographers paradise. There are a collection of nice walks at the top. And of course the token souvenir shop and hot dog stand.
Bergen Aquarium is a good way to spend a few hours. If only for the seals and the penguins. We went early in the morning when it was quiet. If you go in the afternoon you’ll see the seal feeding sessions (we’ve seen this before so we didn’t mind missing it). It’s about £25 each and like most aquariums or zoo’s you must walk through the gift shop on your way out. (Another way to add £25 on to the trip!)
The fish market is also a place that anyone visiting Bergen must witness. Most people turn up their noses at the suggestion of going to visit a fish market although they always apologise with the phrase “you were right” once they have seen it first hand.
Don’t bother visiting the pubs. Or if you do make sure your wallet is topped up before you enter. We stopped past one pub for a couple of drinks before Coldplay. We were £17 for a beer and a vodka and coke. Like I said before, just accept it, otherwise you’ll have a bad time!
Coldplay were on top form as expected. Big yellow balloons released into the crowd during “Yellow”, a million confetti butterflies released into the crowd during “Lovers in Japan”. Light shows and fireworks all added to the experience of the outdoor venue. Very few drunk people in the crowd (one plus point to the high price of alcohol), and once you leave the venue you are right in the centre of what is a very nice city. That is why I chose to see them in Bergen rather than Glasgow. If you are going to see Coldplay at Hampden or Wembley this month then you are sure to be in for a good show.
People who’ve never been before sometimes ask me if it’s worth visiting Norway. I tell them if you like relaxing beach holidays, eating out, drinking and sunbathing then Norway is not the place for you. If you want to relax amongst nice scenery, you like taking photos, you are prepared not to eat out all the time and want to try somewhere a little different, get booking now. I’ve never met anyone who has visited Norway and not fallen in love with the country. There is a whole host of Shetlanders like us who visit every year.
We’re back in Aberdeen now feeling a little depressed with no holidays planned thanks to the saving regime that is now in place. With our travels to America and Canada due to take place next summer, I think the next visit to Norway may not happen for another couple of years. Some annual pilgrimage that is.
